Canton Grill
廣東酒家
Canton Grill served the community for 76 years,
becoming a beloved landmark before closing in 2020.
Canton Grill was more than just a restaurant—it was a home away from home for countless families and a living testament to the resilience and hard work of Chinese immigrants in Portland. Established in the mid-20th century, it quickly became a cornerstone of the community, embodying the dreams, struggles, and triumphs of the Louis family and all who walked through its doors.
Through candid interviews with Fred Louis Jr. and his daughter Cindy Louis, the 2nd- and 3rd-generation owners, the rich history of Canton Grill is shared from those who experienced its legacy firsthand.
Video summary:
- Fred and Cindy introduce themselves and their relations to Canton Grill, sharing its significance and what it meant to them and the community.
Fred’s father arrived in New York City as a young boy during the Great Depression. Like many immigrants, Fred Sr. began with working in a hand laundry and later in restaurants where payment came in meals rather than money. Despite these hardships, he earned a degree in chemistry from Tri-State College in Indiana with dreams of starting a cosmetics factory, though fate ultimately had other plans.
Video summary:
- Fred discusses the discrimination his family faced, particularly how his father struggled to find work despite his qualifications.
- He reflects on the broader context of anti-Chinese sentiment, saying, “When you do a job application, and your name is LOUIE, they just put you in the pile they don’t call back. My father, despite being college-educated, couldn’t get a job. He even changed our last name (to “Louis”) to sound more American to get employed.”
Life in the United States was fraught with challenges for Chinese immigrants, as discrimination was widespread and opportunities were scarce. For Fred’s father, the promise of building a career with his chemistry degree was met with closed doors. The harsh realities of the era pushed many Chinese immigrants into marginalized industries, and when the family relocated to Portland, they faced similar barriers.
Video summary:
Fred recounts, “When my father first came to Portland, he worked for a relative who had a gambling house. But one night, a fire destroyed the place. That fire pushed him into the restaurant business. We were barely getting by with the gambling house, but after it was gone, we had no choice.”
The decision to establish Canton Grill on 82nd Avenue was both strategic and necessary. At the time, 82nd Avenue lay on the outskirts of Portland, a largely auto-oriented, suburban area that was underdeveloped and more affordable. The original building featured a row of single-pane windows facing west along 82nd Avenue. As auto-oriented development grew, visibility from the road and easy parking access became paramount. Consequently, these windows were filled in to enhance temperature control, security, and interior flexibility.
Video summary:
Fred discusses the location selection, saying, “Reality is, what’s available. The building had been vacant for years, probably since the Depression. I think the landlord was desperate, and the rent was cheap. 82nd Avenue was far from the city center, not an ideal spot, but it was what we could afford. My father saw it as an opportunity, a chance to build something despite the odds.”
Canton Grill quickly evolved into more than just a place to dine—it became a second home for many in the community. The restaurant’s warm atmosphere and hearty meals drew families from across the region, creating a setting where memories were forged and traditions maintained.
Cindy recalls her childhood days at the restaurant, where she and her sisters transformed the dining room tables into their own personal playground. “It was like a separate living room,” she reminisces.
Canton Grill was renowned for its signature dishes, many of which became community staples—from the famous Pork Chow Mein to the beloved Honolulu cocktail.
Video summary:
Cindy talks about the restaurant’s iconic dishes and the mayhem of the anniversary celebrations, bringing a lively and personal touch to the legacy of Canton Grill. The anniversary button give-aways became a popular collector’s item!
Cindy recalls, “Every August, during our anniversary month, we would offer $1 bowls of pork noodles and discounted Honolulu cocktails. It was absolute chaos, but it was our way of giving back to the community. My dad would always have a stash of Chinese soup spoons hidden away specifically for this day.”
The COVID-19 pandemic brought unprecedented challenges to many small businesses, and Canton Grill was no exception. After decades of serving the community, the decision to close was not made lightly. For the Louis family, it was a bittersweet moment—marking the end of an era while honoring the years of hard work and resilience that built the Canton Grill legacy.
Video summary:
Fred discusses the challenges during the COVID-19 pandemic, saying, “We were barely holding on. After shutting down for a few months, our staff had to find other jobs. It just seemed like the right time to close. We had built up our crew over years, and after the shutdown, it was impossible to start over again.
As the Louis family reflects on their journey, they feel a deep sense of pride in their accomplishments. Canton Grill was more than a restaurant—it symbolized resilience, community, and the enduring spirit of Chinese immigrant families.
In 2022, APANO acquired the Canton Grill property with a commitment to preserving its legacy, with the plan to develop the site for community-serving purposes, continuing the tradition of Canton Grill as a place that brings people together and supports the needs of the community.
Video summary:
- A heartfelt closing message from Fred and Cindy, expressing their gratitude to the community and sharing their hopes for preserving the memories and legacy of Canton Grill.
- ‘We didn’t just want to be a restaurant; we wanted to be part of the community’s story,’ Cindy says. ‘And I think we achieved that.’
